When it comes to hair care, one size doesn’t fit all. This is especially true for textured hair—a category that includes curly, coily, and kinky hair types, most commonly referred to as Type 3 and Type 4 hair. These textures are beautiful, versatile, and dynamic, but they also have unique characteristics that require a different approach to care.
In this post, we’ll dive into the science behind textured hair, explain what makes it different from straight hair, and offer tips on how to build a routine that works with—not against—your natural curl pattern.
1. The Structure of Textured Hair
Textured hair isn’t just about appearance—it’s about structure. Hair grows from follicles that can be round, oval, or flat. The flatter or more oval the follicle, the curlier the hair.
- Straight hair grows from round follicles.
- Wavy hair comes from slightly oval follicles.
- Curly to coily hair grows from elliptical or flat follicles.
The tighter the curl, the more twists and turns the strand has. These bends and curves create points of weakness along the hair shaft, making textured hair more prone to breakage from tugging and pulling.
2. Moisture Retention Is a Challenge
The natural oils (sebum) produced by your scalp have a harder time traveling down coily or kinky strands. That’s why textured hair often feels dry, even when it’s healthy.
What this means:
Textured hair needs extra hydration through moisturising products and techniques like the LOC or LCO method (Liquid, Oil, Cream or Liquid, Cream, Oil) to maintain elasticity and reduce breakage.
3. Protein-Moisture Balance is Key
Textured hair thrives on balance. Too much moisture can lead to mushy, overly soft hair that breaks easily, while too much protein can make it brittle. Understanding your hair’s porosity helps determine how often you should use protein-rich products versus moisturising treatments.
4. Shrinkage Is a Sign of Health
Many people with textured hair experience shrinkage: where hair appears much shorter than it actually is. This happens because the strands curl and coil tightly when hydrated. While some see shrinkage as a nuisance, it’s actually a sign of healthy, elastic hair.
5. Textured Hair Requires Gentle Handling
Due to its delicate structure, textured hair needs:
- Wide-tooth combs or detangling brushes
- Satin or silk pillowcases to reduce friction
- Low-manipulation or protective styles like braids, twists, or buns
- Heat protection when using styling tools
Avoid rough towel-drying or over-manipulating your hair, as this can lead to breakage over time.
6. Tailored Products Make All the Difference
Mass-market hair products often overlook the needs of textured hair. Look for products that:
- Are free from sulfates, silicones, and drying alcohols
- Include natural oils, butters, and humectants
- Specifically say they’re for curly, coily, or kinky hair
Using the right tools—like heat stylers and brushes designed for textured hair—can also dramatically improve results and reduce damage.
Conclusion: It’s All in the Science
Textured hair is strong, resilient, and stunning—but it deserves care based on its unique biology. Understanding how textured hair behaves at a structural level empowers you to choose the right products, techniques, and routines. With the right knowledge, you can transform your hair from dry and damaged to thriving and full of life.
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